This is a copy of the
first of a series of entries that will tell the story of Bill and
Heather during their CUSO days in Guyana SA. Here we are canoeing
down the Amazon and hoping to get back to Guyana to begin our new
assignment in the Rupununi district where we will be teaching and
running a hostel. Rather than place these amid other material here in
Dragongate, I have established a new blog called Dragonish. So please
come over there to read the exciting story that eventually comes to
an abrupt end in the aftermath of a failed revolution.
Find the link to Dragonish down to your right among the companion blogs.
Canoeing down the Amazon
|
Guiding the canoe through the snags |
Moonlight sparkles on the
Amazon River, the high banks and overhanging trees are inky black and
the current sighs and ruffles the smooth surface. All is silent in
the perfumed air as our long dugout canoe drifts sideways downstream
very close to the high river bank. Lovely, yes, but oh so dangerous!
Two days earlier we had
arrived in Iquitos by plane from the coast of Peru only to find that
the only flight further down river to make connections with Manaus
had just left. That was it for a week, and we needed to begin
teaching in Guyana and my wife Heather’s mother, Ruth, travelling
with us on a holiday trip around South America, had a ticket for her
flight home to Canada. We found an English speaking person who
arranged for this long canoe ride down river to Leticia where we
could catch a flight on to Manaus. Two Amerindian men, a canoe with a
big Swedish outboard engine perched on the stern and a banana leaf
covered shelter amidships were to get us there in time. We paid some
money to our fixer and negotiated how much to pay at the end of the
trip. We roared down river all day, stopped for lunch at an
Amerindian house for smoked Peccary and carried on.
Occasionally the engine
stopped for a while, but eventually started again. Ruth also
desperately needed 'rest stops' as she had picked up an intestinal
bug. 'Es necessario', I would beg as our crew showed great reluctance
to stop their outboard engine yet again.
Into the night we rushed
and then the engine stopped; on purpose this time. SHHH, our crew
said and pushed us gently down under the shelter. We drifted silently
through a riverside town; barking dogs, but no calls to HALT, no
flying bullets, as we slipped past the military check point. Again we
rushed down river, and then another break down. Another day passed,
pretty much a repetition of the first. Another night!
The crew came forward to
ask me about the MONEY. The river was dark, wide and lonely, we were
very vulnerable here. My Spanish was of the sort that comes from
failing it miserably in University, but I was able to explain that
yes they would be paid at Leticia, and that we were CUSO volunteers
who would be teaching at a school for 'los Indios' in Guyana, far to
the north. Phew, back to working on the engine.
This latest breakdown
however has us drifting towards a newly slumped section of the river
bank, leaving branches and tree tops sticking up out of the swiftly
flowing water. The crew, heads down over the engine on the stern,
seem oblivious to the danger so I pick up a paddle in the bow, take a
few strokes to turn us stern foremost and begin to weave us through
the labyrinth of snags. The men glance back, nod and resume work.
Paddling a canoe is a skill I learned as a child. Who knew that it
would come in so handy! We edge back out into the wide river and
eventually the engine roars back to life. This would be a high point
in most adventures, but by now it is just another moment of
adjustment to the needs of the day in what is turning out to seem an
eternity.
The next morning is our
date with Leticia and the scheduled flight downriver to Manaus. At
each bend the crew smile and call “Leticia”, but of course it is
just another jungle covered bank of vegetation. We are all very
tired, mosquito bitten and feverish. “Yeah, right!” we think even
as we smile back. Eventually though, it does appear and quickly we
pay off our crew with many thanks and hurry into town. We change our
money ( we are now in Columbia), take a taxi to the dirt airstrip
and immediately jump on board our DC3. A near thing, but with a roar
we are off. We spend all that day hopping in and out of jungle
clearings all the way to Manaus.
The next morning it turns
out that the scheduled weekly flight direct to Guyana is full of
tropical fish, - no room for us. Another problem to solve. We are
sick from a tropical fever that will remain our weekly companion for
the next few years. We do not have enough money for the long way
around via Belem at the mouth of the Amazon and then the Pan Am
flight north along the coast to Guyana. The Brazilian currency
devalues that day! The banks are closed! Prices remain fixed at the
old rate. We exchange our last US travellers cheques on the black
market! Now we can just pay for our flight!
We do eventually get to
Guyana on time and in one piece and see Ruth off on her plane home to
Canada. We then rush about making plans and buying groceries for our
next teaching assignment in the Rupununi District of the remote
interior. Looking back to those years in our early twenties it is
interesting how experience played such an important part. After a
year teaching on the coast of Guyana we were well acclimatised to
tropical conditions and to living in a 'developing' country. We could
get along using lots of smiles and good will with people of all
stripes. We had our camping and adventuring background from Canada.
We had visited our next assignment twice already. Now we had our
travels around South America, including our trip by canoe down the
Amazon to add to our portfolio. We were not really prepared for the
responsibilities we would face but were confidently ignorant. We were
ready as possible to begin our next assignment.
Perhaps ignorance would
turn out to be our best defence in the turbulent months that lay
ahead.